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Maintenance Products |
Super Maintenance Kit
Includes instructions, Wenol (metal polish), saddle soap, Jay-el beeswax,
leathaphane oil, ONE STOP, and Dubbin for covering scratches.
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Regular Maintenance Kit
Our regular maintenance kit contains saddle soap, beeswax, and
lethaphane oil, along with a pure sheepskin applicator, that you keep in
a zip-lock bag. First, clear your saddle with the saddle soap, using
water and a sponge. This soap is actualy a mild detergent. Finally clear
the saddle with clean water. Let dry. Then apply the lethaphane oil, and
let dry. Then apply the beeswax, and let dry. Thereafter maintain the
saddle with a mixture of lethaphane and beeswax. Soap the applicator,
and stow that in a zip lock, and, little and often, rub over the
saddle.For your convenience, we also sell ONE STOP, which has lethaphane
and beeswax already mixed.
Price$30.00
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Lethaphane
This is a very high penetration oil, built
from natural ingredients, including tallow and vegetable oils. Ideal for
tough dried-out Western style leathers, and also the sweat flap of
Australian stock saddles. Get this into leather before anyting else -- and
nothing else, including horse sweat, will get past it. Once the leather has
been penetrated, finish with beeswax, or dubbin. And then maintain with One
Stop, which is a mixture of all the above.
Price: 1-liter $20.00
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LETHA PHANE and ONE STOP also come in 20-litre drums. LETHA PHANE is a high
penetrating oil, good for old tough harness and saddle leather. ONE STOP is
rich in beeswax, so it provides a luster and a sheen to the surface. Each
drum contains enough to do over 50 saddles!
Price $140.
Shipping
ground UPS within the US $55 |
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Hoof Magic
Hoof magic is, quite simply, the world's best grease to keep the
hooves soft and crack-free. Clean the hoof, including the frog, then apply
liberally, under the hoof, as well on top and up into the coronet band. One
tub will do four horses. It soaks in while you're looking at it!
Cost $20.00
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ONE STOP
After you have conditioned your saddle , cleaning first with saddle
soap, then treating with high-penetrating lethaphane oil, then bee's wax
dressing, MAINTAIN your saddle with ONE STOP, which is actually a mixture
of lethaphane and bee's wax .
Price $20.00
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Wenol
This is, quite simply, the best brass and
metal cleaner on the planet. Your Aussie saddle has LOTS of brass, and
nothing puts back the sparkle like Wenol. And while you have the tube
out, whip up to the house and do the door knobs, faucets, grandmother's
silver and whatever else you want to glitter! The tube contains 100 ml.
Price $.10.00
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DUBBIN
DUBBIN is a great protector of leather, after you have
conditioned the leather. Comes in black, neutral, brown or tan. It
waterproofs as well as conditions. Great for the final coating on
saddles and tack, and especially good for shoes, whips, baseball
gloves, leather balls, belts, and purses. Cost for 4.3 oz is
Price: $10.00
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Oakwood Reproofing Cream
Reproofing cream with bring your oilskin or waxed cotton duster back to
totally waterproof.
Price $20.00 for 14.1 OZ can
COLIN' TIP: Soak coat overnight in water NO DETERGENT.
Brush and let dry. Must be completely free of dirt. Float re-proofing
container in boiling water until contents become liquid. Apply directly from
container using a suitable paintbrush. Use sparingly and work well into the
fabric. If you want it to look like it just came from the factory, hit it
gently with a hair blower. If you want it to look more like leather, rub it
in with your hand. And then HANG FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS IN A WARM, DRY PLACE. |
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How to use Reproofing Cream
Here is what I did with my own Oilskin Coat: age 2l years! It finally got more
leaks than Watergate. So I decided to give it a bullet-proof treatment.
To maintain a coat after just SEVERAL years, simply soak the coat in
water overnight, let it dry, then apply a SPARING coat of reproofing
cream that has been boiled in the container, and as a result has the
consistency of water. Then apply this to the coat ,using a simple paint
brush , AS IT IS HANGING OUT IN THE SUN. Then let it dry for at least a
week, in a breezy sunny area. At least twice, pass over the coat with a
hair dryer, removing excess oil with a terry cloth. You should use about
two-thirds of a container of OAKWOOD Reproofing on a full length coat.
Then let it hang in a breezy dry area for another couple of weeks -- or
until the rains come! However, with my very old coat, I did a major
job. I LOVE this coat. Slept on the ground in several countries in
it.( So I'm a romantic as well as cheap! ) I soaked the coat, scrubbed
it (no detergent) let it dry completely, and, in sunlight, painted on
the OAKWOOD. I used one and one half containers of OAKWOOD. Then I blew
it on HIGH with a hair dryer, to get the treatment well into the fabric.
Five times I did the hair dryer treatment over one month. removing
excess oil each time with a cloth. The result was spectacular. This coat
will never leak as long as I live! And now it looks like LEATHER. Way
cool! Colin
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